Step by step — Click the image to view it full size.

Deciding where to place the rim — the decision where to set the rim of the live edge is made when cutting in the bowl bottom.

I received multiple inquiries about my finishing techniques, so I decided to add it here.  I will include the three primary finishing methods I use on bowls and explain why I chose which to employ.

Types of Finishes:

1. Smooth sand and food grade mineral oil or canola oil.

   1. This is the simplest and fastest method.  I use this finish for salad bowls or anything going to the kitchen for utility purposes.  Oiling helps the wood tolerate frequent water contact.
   2. Wet Wood –
      1. I turn to final thickness, target is ¼ to ?”.
         This thickness will avoid most cracking.  Thinner is less likely to crack.
         If you have included the pith in the workpiece it will crack.  Plan on it and fill with epoxy and sawdust mix after drying.
         While wet, smooth sand on the lathe to 220.
      2. Store in paper grocery bag until metered moisture content reads 12% or below.
         I store in my garage.
      3. After drying, if it will go in the lathe because it didn’t warp too much, I will finish sand to 320, or if smooth enough, leave as is.
   3. Dry Wood (less than 12% moisture) – smooth sand to 220 or 320.
   4. Install medallion, or other marks as appropriate.
   5. Apply a liberal coat of oil, let dry overnight and apply a second coat.
   6. Deliver bowl.

2. Smooth Sand, Buff, Polish and Carnauba Wax.

   1. This is the second simplest and fastest method.  This method is great for an art bowl.  Lousy if people are not careful to only touch the bowl with dry hands.  Any moisture will lift the wax.  The bowl will look terrible after that and have to be redone.
   2. Do not put any bare metal in the bowl before buffing.  Cracks filled with metal dust must be encased in epoxy to prevent color bleed onto the buffing wheel and wood workpiece.  Tape or wait until after buffing – experiment as needed.  Metal on the buffing wheel will be a permanent contamination.
   3. Wet Wood –
      1. I turn to final thickness, target is ¼ to ?”.
         This thickness will avoid most cracking.  Thinner is less likely to crack.
         If you have included the pith in the workpiece it will crack.  Plan on it and fill with epoxy and sawdust mix after drying.
         While wet, smooth sand on the lathe to 220.
      2. Store in paper grocery bag until metered moisture content reads 12% or below.
         I store in my garage.
      3. After drying, if it will go in the lathe because it didn’t warp too much, I mount it up for finishing sanding, otherwise, hand hold.
   4. Dry Wood (less than 12% moisture) – smooth sand to 220 or 320.
      1. Finish sand in steps:
         320, 400, and 600.  If highly figured or interesting I will sand to 800 or 1000.
         NOTE: Above 1000 grit sanding does not improve results given the rouge or (red) Tripoli buffing compound 1000 grit size.
   5. I use the Beall Buffing System (link) to buff, polish and wax my workpiece.
      1. Ideally I size my bowl so that the 8″ flat buffing wheel will ride all around the inside curve of the bowl.  The reason is because the ball end just doesn’t yield the same result.  Of course if the bowl size is too small, you have to use the ball end.
      2. I mounted the Beall mandrel to the right side arbor on a 1,725 RPM slow speed ~$100 grinder from Amazon.
      3. Start with the red buffing compound and matching wheel, I buff all surfaces until smooth and even in appearance.  Any scratches from sanding will stand out.  Go back to the sanding step, probably 220 or 320, and repeat all steps again until no scratches.
         Apply red Tripoli buffing stick to the wheel sparingly.  A new wheel will need much more compound until it is is loaded up and then you can be more sparing.
      4. After a good buff of all surfaces is complete, move to the white diamond (1800 grit size) polishing wheel and white stick.  White dust will adhere to the workpiece as you move systematically around the workpiece. It wipes off easily with a clean terry cloth.  Remove the dust before applying carnauba wax.
         I start by first sighting a distinct reference point on the workpiece.  Then polish with the wheel contacting the surface in a particular direction, then after polishing the entire surface, rotate 90 degrees and repeat until an even high gloss appearance is applied to the entire surface.
      5. End the buffing step by moving to the Carnauba Wax wheel and stick.  Carnauba wax is applied by heat.  Friction from the wheel’s rotation speed and contact force to the surface of the bowl is how the wax is applied.  Rub the wax stick on the wheel for 30-45 seconds to get a good coat.  Then apply to bowl with firm pressure.  Focus on one small area and rotate-reposition the workpiece to achieve a consistent appearance and rich luster.  Reapply wax as needed, certainly two or three times per inside and outside of the workpiece, or about ? of the surface per each wax replenishment.
      6. Using a clean terry or microfibre cloth wipe all around to remove any excess material and raise the wax finish to a high luster.
      7. Install your medallion or mark as appropriate.
      8. Delivery.

3. Smooth Sand, Oil Varnish, Wet Sand, Buff, Police, Carnauba Wax.

   1. This is the longest and hardest to complete.  The bowl is also the most durable.  A varnish finish is also food safe.  FDA testing shows that after all volatile gases have dissipated there is no risk to human health.  A varnished bowl will tolerate momentary water contact and light cleaning with a damp cloth.  If you expect your bowl to be handled or used in the kitchen and a high luster finish is also desired, this is the method to finish the bowl.
   2. Follow the instructions in #2 above, stopping at step E.
   3. You should have dry smooth sanded to at least 600.  Go to 800 or even 1500 if a super finish is desired.
   4. I do not use water based varnish (polyurethane is varnish).  I use throw away applicators on bowls, pens and bottle stoppers so cleaning an expensive brush is not an issue.  I work in an open garage so fumes from the oil varnish are not an issue either.  I don’t use water based products because I don’t want the grain raised.  Some folks actually do use alcohol or spray a fine mist of water and then sand again until the grain does not raise.  I do not do this.
   5. When I am done dry sanding, I wipe with pain thinner and clean terry cloth.  I will rub until the thinner has evaporated.  This will buff up the surface and sometimes reveal sanding scratches I may have missed.  If so, I stop and go back to the 220 or 320 sanding step and repeat all the steps again.
   6. I use General Finishes Armor Seal oil varnish from Woodcraft.
      Knife handles, bowls, pens, bottle tops and so forth take so little varnish that I try to buy the smallest cans available.  I am also very careful not to spill product into the rim of the can.  This way I can get the can open without trashing the lid. Otherwise, I buy coated cans at the hardware store and swap the product into the can.  I mark the date I bought the product on the can lid. This way I can track when the product starts to NOT flow properly.  When a third or fourth coat does not flow and smooth out, that means the product has dried out, probably from sitting open too long or on the shelf too long.  Keep the can tightly closed when not in use, and put the lid on between times you reload your applicator.
   7. To prepare for the first varnish coat, I obtain a very fine thread t-shirt or similar thin fine weave cloth.  Too thick and I waste expensive finish or put on too much and get a run.  I cut into a size appropriate for the size of the workpiece, such as 4″ x 6″ for an 11″ bowl.  I fold all cut seams inward to minimize fabric particles escaping onto my workpiece.  I put on gloves, open the freshly shaken finish that has rested for a minute or two, and dip the new dry cloth into the product.  I then wipe a thin “dry” coat over the entire surface.  I am not too worried about glove marks on the workpiece.  I will be applying more coats and wet sanding in between.  This first coat is intended to penetrate and seal the grain, and reveal any sanding or machine marks.  I examine the entire surface for any inconsistent appearances in the amount of varnish applied.  I do NOT try to cover in one coat.  If there are any runs, I wipe over to remove excess and smooth into the surrounding area.
   8. I stand the bowl on three pyramid blocks and allow to dry for 48-hours.
   9. After thoroughly hard and dry, wearing gloves and with plenty of ventilation, I wet sand with 800 wet/dry sandpaper and paint thinner.  I wipe dry with a clean terry towel.  I examine the surface for a consistent appearance (fine buff appearance).  Any machining or sanding marks are removed with a restart of the sanding step at the finest grit needed to remove the defect. If sanding to bare wood, restart at 3E.  It may be necessary to sand the entire project to ensure a smooth even appearance.
   10. The second and subsequent varnish coats are applied using the same fine weave cloth.  Do not use any cloth with a terry or ribbed surface.  These will leave ridges in the wet finish, which may not even out as the finish dries.  I also try to work quickly.  General Finishes oil varnish starts to flow out and dry pretty quickly, especially in hot (75F+) dry (humidity under 35%) conditions.  In third and fourth coats you will find you need less finish and it flows more easily, more quickly.  Allow to thoroughly dry, two or more days.  Then wet sand between coats.
   11. The final coat – I don’t worry about tiny dust particles or micro air bubbles.  The reason is that wet sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit will remove them completely leaving a smooth even surface.  Dry with a clean terry cloth.
   12. Buff, Polish and Wax.
       1. Given that Tripoli is 1000 grit, plan on a duller finish than was left by your last wet sand.
       2. So why buff?  I like to buff because this is my last smoothing of the entire surface.  Watch how hard to press the workpiece into the buffing (Tripoli) wheel.  Push too hard and you’ll cut through the varnish layers and overheat the surface.  You’ll have to sand again to remove defects and restart the finishing step again.
       3. Polish with white diamond to a high gloss finish.
       4. Wind up with the Carnauba wax.
       5. Review Step 2E above for more about using the Beall Buffing System.
   13. Install your medallion or marks as appropriate.
   14. Deliver.